Day 16, Sept 23 - Palmwag to Kipwe Lodge, Damaraland

Nearing the end of our trip, we discussed around the campfire the previous night our plans for going home.  Tom, Bertie and Dawn got up, packed up, said good-bye and headed for Henties Bay.  Leon and Martie stayed on another 3 days at Palmwag along with Roelof and Rykie. Leon could not find 18 inch tires in the area and had to arrange for tires to be sent from Windhoek to Kamanjab, where we first started our trip. Roelof drove Leon to pick up the tires, which took a day, and they all came back to Henties on the Sept 26. Salome and I decided to go to one of my favorite lodges, Camp Kipwe, in the heart of Damaraland, and spend the night before returning to Henties.  Before leaving, we looked around the Palmwag lodge grounds.

Palmwag Lodge pool

More chalets as seen from the restaurant deck

But the most interesting and fun thing we did before leaving was to meet the young lady below.  Remember it was Leon and Martie's car that had tire problems.  As luck would have it their daughter Lizl was working as Palmwag Lodge manager during our stay there.  Once again I was reminded how Namibia really is a small town! 

Where ever we travelled I was always interested in knowing if other Americans were there or had been there.  Was I the only one finding these places or were other Americans "off the beaten track"?  When I asked lodge managers if they had many American clientelle the answer was always no.  When I asked Lizl she said yes, they do get quite a few.  Then she paused and added, "Well most of them work for the Peace Corps but we do get them."  That wasn't exactly what I had in mind...I meant tourists...do they get many American tourists!!!  And I guess we all know the answer to that!

Salome and Lizl

We said our good-byes and headed for the gate.  A short distance for the lodge entrance we came to a petrol pump at the veterinary cordon fence (red line) where we filled up the cruiser.  The veterinary cordon fence was set up to protect southern Namibia from the spread of foot-and-mouth disease.  The African buffalo, found only in northern Namibia, carries the disease.  Southern areas do not have buffalo and are disease free.  All vehicles must stop at the control point and any beef will be confiscated and they will definitely look in your cooler.  By now we had used up all our beef but they let our pork bratwurst through.  Earlier in the trip we were exiting the protected area and they let us right through.  Upon entering the controlled area they are more strict.

Filling up before the veterinary cordon fence

I was sorry I didn't get a picture of the fence and the World Wildlife Fund (WWF) vehicle waiting waiting in line just behind us.

Scenery after leaving Palmwag

We didn't get far before the unthinkable happened...we had a flat tire!  This time, no Roelof to help!!!  What were we to do?  Salome didn't hesitate to flag down the first vehicle that came our way...a combi (van) full of German tourists! She asked, "Don't you have any strong young men in there to help us?"  I tried to look weak and helpless. ;-)

German tourists changing our tire

The strong young German who changed the tire was well qualified, he owns a garage in Germany.  Being German, he couldn't help make a few comments about the condition of the tires and the fact that our jack was for "toy cars". But we were very appreciative none-the-less.
After leaving the helpful Germans, the road went over some mountains and again the views were excellent.

Interesting road sign...

Unusual rock formation

Mystical mountains of Damaraland

Along the way to Camp Kipwe, on the eastern side of Damaraland in the red rocks, we would pass a Wilderness Safari Lodge, Doro Nawas.  Doro Nawas, a 5-star lodge with a 5-star view, sits on top of a hill in the middle of a vast plain ringed with mountains.  What made our stop there special was Salome's niece's son Jason.  Jason is assistant manager at Doro Nawas and was acting manager the day we stopped by.  He spotted Salome's vehicle from a distance and proudly rushed out to meet us with welcome drinks.  What a great guy!!!

Salome and Jason at Doro Nawas

Looking into lodge from observation deck

The Doro Nawas lodge is a 5-sided building designed to blend into the landscape yet at the same time allow patrons to enjoy the stunning view in all directions. 

Wrap around viewing deck

Floor to ceiling windows in lounge and dining areas

After a delightful visit with Jason we headed for Camp Kipwe, about an hour away.  As I said earlier, Camp Kipwe is one of my favorite lodges.  It is an Andre Lowe lodge, owner and designer of the award winning Onguma "Fort" outside of Etosha.  Kipwe is nestled in the red rocks of Damaraland and the best word I can think of to describe it is zen...it is not on the rocks, it is in the rocks and has become one with them.  And it's one of the most peaceful places I've ever been.

Bungalow porch

View from our bungalow

Entrance to bungalow

Camp Kipwe manager, Adriaan, and Salome at breakfast

The manager, Adriaan was a true gentleman and one of the best lodge hosts I've had.  Thank you for a great stay Adriaan!!!  I've got to stop now or I'll be gushing about Camp Kipwe.  We had a lovely afternoon and evening in the red rocks to cap off a fabulous trip...the next morning we left for a 3 hour drive to Henties Bay.

Day 15, Sept 22 - Archie's Elephant Song Camp to Palmwag

We awoke to our 5-star lodge view after a windy night.  Those who didn't shower the night before when the water ran out were able to shower in the morning.  I haven't mentioned cost of camping.  The more developed campgrounds were typically 100 to 110 rand per night per person.  That's about 8-10 US dollars.  Archie's was about 40 rand/per night...Rykie did the bargaining so I'm not exactly sure.  Some of the other campgrounds were 60 to 80 rand per night.  To me, Archie's was a bargain.  I loved the Hoanib river, which was not only beautiful but full of game (wildlife)

Packing up to leave Archie's

Campfire area and round covered building on the right

Archie's had a round stone building that was open but covered.  Those who didn't want to sleep on the edge of a precipice slept there.  The showers were actually lovely when they had water.  We were a large group, 11 people, so I suspect there normally isn't a problem getting enough water.  We were also the only people staying that night at Archie's...it is quite far from civilization.  The showers were open to the air and had a view.

Interior of shower

View from shower

We headed back up the river bed staying to the left, until we could turn left out of the river.  The river bed road here was very dusty, fortunately we only had to go a couple of kilometers.  The road out of the river bed took us directly to Sesfontain and we were there before 11 am.
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Lined up to refuel in Sesfontain

Sesfontain, named after "six springs" found in the area, was an important German military outpost in the early 1900's.  A fort was built here to control the movement of stock around the country due to a severe rinderpest (cattle plague) epidemic in 1896.  The fort had running water and extensive gardens for growing supplies.  It was abandoned at the start of World War I and only renovated into a lodge a few years ago.  Here we took respite in the lovely gardens and enjoyed a cool drink.

Gardens at Fort Sesfontain Lodge

Tom under a bougainvillea

Roelof, Tom, Salome and Dawn relaxing at Fort Sesfontain

We were soon back on the road again, headed southeast on the C43 (practically a highway!!!) towards Palmwag, where we would spend the night.  One common scene on Namibian roads I haven't shared is that of the donkey drawn cart.  Donkey carts are common and we had seen a few but most of my pictures were taken out the window of a moving vehicle and were not very good.  We passed this guy just outside of Sesfontain.

Donkey driver with a good attitude!

We were still enjoying nice scenery

We were about an hour outside of Sesfontain when we ran into trouble.  Leon and Martie had a puncture (flat tire).

Flat tire on the back right

Martie and Leon had lost a tire early on when a rock punctured the sidewall.  That mishap left them with one spare.  Unfortunately, the spare, brought on the trip by mistake, had a bubble in the sidewall and it subsequently burst while on the top of Tom's vehicle.  Now they had no spare.  It took an hour to fix the flat tubeless tire, using 8 tire repair kits (string and glue) as well as a sealant you spray into the tire to seal it.  Once back on the road, we didn't get very far when they had another flat on the back left.

Puncture on back left...Roelof at work again!!!

After Leon and Martie's second flat the group split.  Roleof and Rykie stayed with Leon and Martie while the rest of us went on to Palmwag Lodge, about 45 minutes away.  Fixing the second flat was too challenging and Leon ended up sending the tire to the Palmwag lodge where they installed a 16 inch tube into the 18 inch tubeless tire.  This worked well enough to get Leon and Martie's vehicle to Palmwag, about 2-3 hours later.

View on road to Palmwag

Checking into the Palmwag Lodge/Campsite

Palmwag lodge, actually situated in northern Damaraland rather than Koakoland, is located next to a large wilderness area that is home to one of the world's largest population of black rhino, which is an endangered species.  The black rhino is the hooked-lip rhino...not actually black in color.  Save the Rhino Trust (SRT), an NGO, was instrumental in starting a protection program here about 20 years ago.  Trips can be taken to see the rhino...we didn't.  The lodge also offers game drives...we didn't do that either...but I was impressed by their sightings, which included desert lion and cheetah but no rhino.

Palmwag game viewing board: desert lion, cheetah, and lots of elephant

The 22nd was actually a very special day...it was Rita's birthday!  To celebrate, She and Nico decided to book a room at the lodge rather than camp.

Palmwag Lodge chalets

Hot and hungry, Salome and I headed for the outside bar where we could get something to eat and drink.

After eating and relaxing, we set up camp and started preparing for Rita's birthday celebration.

Tom, Bertie, and Salome relaxing in camp

Lodge personnel placing repaired flat on vehicle roof

After all our group was in camp, showered and rested...we celebrated Rita's birthday with champagne...ok, it was actually South African sparkling wine...and a delicious meal with lots of laughter.  As Nico said, he and Rita were married over 40 years and during that time she never once mentioned divorce...murder yes!...but not divorce!

Dawn, Rita and Nico

Tom, Bertie and Leon

Martie, Rykie, and Roelof

Day 14, Sept 21 - Purros to Archies Elephant Song Campground (Hoanib River)

We left Purros campground around 9 am on the D3707.  From camp we stayed left and went around the small town of Purros.  Soon we spotted giraffe and oryx grazing across the open plains.   The mountain range on the left was fascinating.  Jan Joubert's map labeled it as "Etendeka Mountains".  Etendeka is a Himba word meaning "place of flat-topped mountains".  The significance of the Etendeka mountain range is that it dates from the time of Gondwanaland, the earth's first continent.  Etendeka rocks are found in both Namibia and Brazil.  These mountains were not flat, however, they looked like someone ripped them out of the ground and set them back down at a 90 degree angle.  What should have been horizontal layers were vertical

Roelof packing up to leave Purros

Etendeka mountain layers uplifted into a vertical position

Stopped to add fuel to Tom's vehicle

We traveled down the Gomatum river valley. The Gomatum river, which runs into the Hoarusib, was dry. We stopped just before 10 am to add diesel to Tom's vehicle.  At the last fuel stop in Okongwati...7 days ago... they ran out of diesel and Tom wasn't able to completely refill.  We were all getting low, however, and there would not be fuel available until the following day.

Between Tomakas and Ganumub in the middle of the Giribis plain we turned right towards a small koppie where we climbed up and took pictures of the many, many fairy circles.  What is a fairy circle?  Nobody knows for sure.  There are many theories. Those with the most credibility are: they were caused by extinct termite mounds from a previous high rainfall period or that they are caused by the death and decay of a plant previously growing there.  I think the marks were left by UFO's when they landed.

Looking back on the Giribis plain from the small koppie (hill)

Looking at the road ahead...through the fairy circles

Fairy Martie enjoying circle energy!

We followed the road out of the Giribis plain and into a beautiful valley between mountains on both sides.  We saw more oryx and springbok in the golden fields.  The valley turned into a canyon leading to the Hoanib river and as we progressed it started descending in twists and turns. This was a beautiful route and the road not too bad although there were a few corrugated spots.

More tilted mountains along the way to the Hoanib

Oryx (gemsbok)

More Springbok

Descending through a canyon to the Hoanib river

Just before the canyon, which was a dry tributary, joined the Hoanib we saw our first elephant in a cave on the left. 

Well hidden motionless elephant in the cool shade

This difficult-to-see elephant wasn't moving.  My first reaction was that someone was playing a joke by putting a wooden elephant here to wind the tourists up.  I quickly realized the elephant was too life-like to be fake.  After watching a few minutes this one-tusked guy proved he was real by performing gyrations with his trunk.

He's real!!! And he only has one tusk!

Soon we entered the Hoanib river and the views were outstanding.  I realize I've said that many times in this blog but here are the pictures and you decide:

View of the Hoanib river valley

View from the Hoanib river bed

View from Hoanib river bed

We went up the river in the direction of Sesfontain and found a nice lunch spot in the shade of a tree.

Shaded lunch spot

Rykie resting on one of the large dead trees in the riverbed

This part of the river was beautiful all the way to Archie's elephant song camp, our destination just 5 kilometers upriver from where we entered the Hoanib.  Along the way we saw more elephant, giraffe, and baboon.   I assumed the large concentration of game here was due to the fact the Hoanib had quite a bit of water in it and it also lots of grass and trees.  In spite of all the trees, you must appreciate the difficulties giraffe face in getting enough to eat in the desert.  Below a giraffe strains to reach the lowest branches.

Giraffe in the Hoanib reaching for leaves

All the desert animals are adapted somewhat to desert conditions.  We watched a baboon put on a terrific climbing display...no ropes!

Baboon climbing a cliff

Baboon like to spend the night in the cliffs for protection.  This one sat on a ledge for awhile before joining the rest of his troop a little further up.

Desert elephant have legs slightly longer than bush elephant like you find in the Kruger.  This is because they have to walk long distances to find enough food and water.  We saw a herd of 8-10 as well as a couple of lone males.  We were delighted to round a corner and find this very gentle well behaved guy drinking in the river by the green reeds.

Happy elephant

Just past the elephant, we spotted vehicles coming towards us.  To our surprise and delight, it was Richard Fryer, the guy who helped Salome and I pack our vehicle the day we left.  Richard works for the Integrated Rural Development and Nature Conservation (IRDNC) http://www.irdnc.org.na/, which is a conservancy organization linking wildlife conservation to rural development and to democracy.   It is funded by the World Wildlife fund for Nature (WWF).  Richard works all over the Koakoland area and lives in a place called "Worlds End".  Can't wait to see that!! Richard was there with 17 or 18 university students who are studying conservation.  With them was a couple of professors, one of them an American woman from of all places...Alaska!!!  Richard is a good friend of Salome's and meeting him here reminded me how Namibia is a small town indeed!!

The convoy of conservationists!

Richard, on the far right, giving directions and advice

Jesse, Richard's dog and travel companion, cooling off while waiting for Richard

There was a lot of action in the 5 km we traveled in the Hoanib.  Finally we made it to Archie's camp, which was located on a hill overlooking the river valley.  The valley views were stunning.  Archie's was not 5 star by any means...they did have showers and toilets but because of a slow borehole ran out of water.  Minor details considering they had a 5-star lodge view!!!

View from my bedroom at Archie's

Another bedroom view

Another bedroom view

Salome's and my bedroom...stretchers just on the other side of the cruiser

Our next door neighbors...Martie and Leon

The views were fantastic, the company excellent, the stars brilliant and the night was perfect, perfect, perfect!!!