Day 2, Sept 10 – Kamanjab to Kunene River Camp

After saying good bye to a Bertie and Dawn’s lovely farm, we went back to the small town of Kamanjab and picked up the C 35 (again) towards Ruacanna.  This turned out to be a straight flat road for many miles.  Before it was tarred it used to be known as the wit pad, which means white road in Afrikaans.  This was my chance to drive so I didn’t take many pictures here.  Shortly after the cutoff to Opuwo, the road turned back to gravel.  I continued driving to Ruacanna but this was probably the last time I’ll drive…unless the doctor gives Salome a sedative!

Upon arriving in Ruacanna, we filled up with petrol as this is the last stop where we know it is available until much later in the trip.  After filling up, we head for the Ruacanna Falls, which is just beyond the customs gate to Angola.  The falls overlook turned out to be a bit of a disappointment as it is the dry season and the electricity generating dam has blocked most of the water flow.  Salome’s picture of the falls, which I showed earlier, was taken in April after the summer rains.  So if you want to see the Ruacanna Falls, go in March, April or May…not in September!

We picked up a gravel road outside of Ruacanna towards the Kunene River Lodge that ran along the Kunene River.  Because of all the rains last summer, this road flooded in spots and still had some water on it.  All in all, it wasn’t too bad.  I think we used 4 X 4 in only one or two spots, although there was the odd muddy water hole and rocky climb.

Nico and Rita crash through the river in the Isuzu and trailer

We did have our first flat tire along this road.  Here the retired gynecologist, Roelof, is put some of his tire changing skills to work…the gravel roads can be very tough on tires.

Roelof jacking up Tom's Land Rover

We also ran into our first Himba people along this road.  Below is a couple of young women in traditional dress as well as some shots of their housing.

Abandoned Himba dwelling

Our first encounter with Himba

Hair braided with a mixture of mud (often red ochre) and animal fat

At around 4:30 we pulled into the Kunene River Lodge, a beautiful spot on the river with 8 air conditioned rooms, 4 chalets, and a very nice river view campground.  It is owned and run by Hillary and Pete Morgan, both lovely people with interesting backgrounds.  We quickly settled in for the night.  Salome cooked curried chicken and I made vegetable stir-fry.

Nico setting up camp among the beautiful trees along the river

Salome and Leon before our riverside dinner