Wednesday 19 October 2011

Day 10, Sept 17 – Syncro River Camp

After 3 days of rough driving and 2 nights camping in the bush, we finally had a day to relax.  I think we were all quite tired by now and it was a pleasure to sleep in, have some laundry done, and fix a few flats.
Morning view of western hills from Syncro camp
We were now officially in the more "remote" part of Koakoland and there would be no more diesel available for a few days...not even out of plastic drums.  Because of the difficulties getting here, this part of the Kunene river doesn't get as many visitors as Epupa Falls.  The Syncro campsite was the only campsite I was aware of.   There could have been some other small ones but if so, I doubt they had the amenities that Syncro provided.  The campsite was on the river, of course, and it was a lovely spot. We could have used more shade, but there was enough for our tents and to keep our vehicles partially shaded during the day. 
Salome's and my campsite
Tom, Roelof, Leon, Rykie and Martie relaxing
Sunset on the mountains looking east
After breakfast Salome, Bertie and I took 3 flat tires to a nearby lodge, the Okahirongo River Camp, to be fixed.  Wow! Was I surprised to discover such a nice 5 star lodge in middle of nowhere!!!  All the guests are flown in by plane.  Most of their clientele is Italian.  There weren't any guests at the moment so the manager, Corne and his cute little dog Cognac, showed us around.

Pulling into the 5 star lodge with a load of flat tires
Normally we wouldn't have flat tires repaired at a 5 star lodge but with no shops available for the next few days it seemed like a terrific idea.
Bertie, Corne, Cognac and Salome...enjoying Corne's hospitality
Okahirongo had lots of nice corners in which to relax...
Salome and Bertie...poolside...enjoying the view
View of Kunene river from Okahirongo River Camp
It was this view that inspired the phrase, "5-star lodge view". After considering the differences between where we were staying at Syncro campsite and the Okahirongo Lodge...aside from the massages, gourmet meals, and service personnel...what was the difference?  It was the view!  The 5-star lodges always come with a view, a view that helps propel your being across an expanse of water, mountains and space.  This helps you forget trivial preoccupations and become one with nature.  Lovely!
On the way back to the campsite we encounter more Himba.
Two unmarried Himba gals hamming it up for the camera
Meanwhile, back at the camp, the goats have come down to the river for a drink in crocodile infested waters.  And these waters are notoriously crocodile infested!  Safety measures taken by the goat herders...and I did think this was very clever...was to throw stones into the water while the goats were drinking in order to scare away the crocs.  Simple...and apparently effective!!

Goat herders and Syncro camp personnel work together to make the goats safe
I loved this little guy bringing along a baby too slow to keep up with the rest of the herd
While we were in camp there was a story told about a Domini's brother who disappeared here 2 years ago.  He walked down to the river after dark and was never seen again.  That certainly explains why all the fuss when the goats were drinking.  It was enough to keep me away from the river at night.

Any way you look at it, the crocodiles were cost effective Angola/Namibia border control.

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