Come see me in africa!: Day 14, Sept 21 - Purros to Archies Elephant Song Campground (Hoanib River)

We left Purros campground around 9 am on the D3707. From camp we stayed left and went around the small town of Purros. Soon we spotted giraffe and oryx grazing across the open plains. The mountain range on the left was fascinating. Jan Joubert's map labeled it as "Etendeka Mountains". Etendeka is a Himba word meaning "place of flat-topped mountains". The significance of the Etendeka mountain range is that it dates from the time of Gondwanaland, the earth's first continent. Etendeka rocks are found in both Namibia and Brazil. These mountains were not flat, however, they looked like someone ripped them out of the ground and set them back down at a 90 degree angle. What should have been horizontal layers were vertical

Roelof packing up to leave Purros

Etendeka mountain layers uplifted into a vertical position

Stopped to add fuel to Tom's vehicle

We traveled down the Gomatum river valley. The Gomatum river, which runs into the Hoarusib, was dry. We stopped just before 10 am to add diesel to Tom's vehicle. At the last fuel stop in Okongwati...7 days ago... they ran out of diesel and Tom wasn't able to completely refill. We were all getting low, however, and there would not be fuel available until the following day.

Between Tomakas and Ganumub in the middle of the Giribis plain we turned right towards a small koppie where we climbed up and took pictures of the many, many fairy circles. What is a fairy circle? Nobody knows for sure. There are many theories. Those with the most credibility are: they were caused by extinct termite mounds from a previous high rainfall period or that they are caused by the death and decay of a plant previously growing there. I think the marks were left by UFO's when they landed.

Looking back on the Giribis plain from the small koppie (hill)

Looking at the road ahead...through the fairy circles

Fairy Martie enjoying circle energy!

We followed the road out of the Giribis plain and into a beautiful valley between mountains on both sides. We saw more oryx and springbok in the golden fields. The valley turned into a canyon leading to the Hoanib river and as we progressed it started descending in twists and turns. This was a beautiful route and the road not too bad although there were a few corrugated spots.

More tilted mountains along the way to the Hoanib

Oryx (gemsbok)

More Springbok

Descending through a canyon to the Hoanib river

Just before the canyon, which was a dry tributary, joined the Hoanib we saw our first elephant in a cave on the left.

Well hidden motionless elephant in the cool shade

This difficult-to-see elephant wasn't moving. My first reaction was that someone was playing a joke by putting a wooden elephant here to wind the tourists up. I quickly realized the elephant was too life-like to be fake. After watching a few minutes this one-tusked guy proved he was real by performing gyrations with his trunk.

He's real!!! And he only has one tusk!

Soon we entered the Hoanib river and the views were outstanding. I realize I've said that many times in this blog but here are the pictures and you decide:

View of the Hoanib river valley

View from the Hoanib river bed

View from Hoanib river bed

We went up the river in the direction of Sesfontain and found a nice lunch spot in the shade of a tree.

Shaded lunch spot

Rykie resting on one of the large dead trees in the riverbed

This part of the river was beautiful all the way to Archie's elephant song camp, our destination just 5 kilometers upriver from where we entered the Hoanib. Along the way we saw more elephant, giraffe, and baboon. I assumed the large concentration of game here was due to the fact the Hoanib had quite a bit of water in it and it also lots of grass and trees. In spite of all the trees, you must appreciate the difficulties giraffe face in getting enough to eat in the desert. Below a giraffe strains to reach the lowest branches.

Giraffe in the Hoanib reaching for leaves

All the desert animals are adapted somewhat to desert conditions. We watched a baboon put on a terrific climbing display...no ropes!

Baboon climbing a cliff

Baboon like to spend the night in the cliffs for protection. This one sat on a ledge for awhile before joining the rest of his troop a little further up.

Desert elephant have legs slightly longer than bush elephant like you find in the Kruger. This is because they have to walk long distances to find enough food and water. We saw a herd of 8-10 as well as a couple of lone males. We were delighted to round a corner and find this very gentle well behaved guy drinking in the river by the green reeds.

Happy elephant

Just past the elephant, we spotted vehicles coming towards us. To our surprise and delight, it was Richard Fryer, the guy who helped Salome and I pack our vehicle the day we left. Richard works for the Integrated Rural Development and Nature Conservation (IRDNC) http://www.irdnc.org.na/, which is a conservancy organization linking wildlife conservation to rural development and to democracy. It is funded by the World Wildlife fund for Nature (WWF). Richard works all over the Koakoland area and lives in a place called "Worlds End". Can't wait to see that!! Richard was there with 17 or 18 university students who are studying conservation. With them was a couple of professors, one of them an American woman from of all places...Alaska!!! Richard is a good friend of Salome's and meeting him here reminded me how Namibia is a small town indeed!!

The convoy of conservationists!

Richard, on the far right, giving directions and advice

Jesse, Richard's dog and travel companion, cooling off while waiting for Richard

There was a lot of action in the 5 km we traveled in the Hoanib. Finally we made it to Archie's camp, which was located on a hill overlooking the river valley. The valley views were stunning. Archie's was not 5 star by any means...they did have showers and toilets but because of a slow borehole ran out of water. Minor details considering they had a 5-star lodge view!!!