Day 15, Sept 22 - Archie's Elephant Song Camp to Palmwag

We awoke to our 5-star lodge view after a windy night.  Those who didn't shower the night before when the water ran out were able to shower in the morning.  I haven't mentioned cost of camping.  The more developed campgrounds were typically 100 to 110 rand per night per person.  That's about 8-10 US dollars.  Archie's was about 40 rand/per night...Rykie did the bargaining so I'm not exactly sure.  Some of the other campgrounds were 60 to 80 rand per night.  To me, Archie's was a bargain.  I loved the Hoanib river, which was not only beautiful but full of game (wildlife)

Packing up to leave Archie's

Campfire area and round covered building on the right

Archie's had a round stone building that was open but covered.  Those who didn't want to sleep on the edge of a precipice slept there.  The showers were actually lovely when they had water.  We were a large group, 11 people, so I suspect there normally isn't a problem getting enough water.  We were also the only people staying that night at Archie's...it is quite far from civilization.  The showers were open to the air and had a view.

Interior of shower

View from shower

We headed back up the river bed staying to the left, until we could turn left out of the river.  The river bed road here was very dusty, fortunately we only had to go a couple of kilometers.  The road out of the river bed took us directly to Sesfontain and we were there before 11 am.
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Lined up to refuel in Sesfontain

Sesfontain, named after "six springs" found in the area, was an important German military outpost in the early 1900's.  A fort was built here to control the movement of stock around the country due to a severe rinderpest (cattle plague) epidemic in 1896.  The fort had running water and extensive gardens for growing supplies.  It was abandoned at the start of World War I and only renovated into a lodge a few years ago.  Here we took respite in the lovely gardens and enjoyed a cool drink.

Gardens at Fort Sesfontain Lodge

Tom under a bougainvillea

Roelof, Tom, Salome and Dawn relaxing at Fort Sesfontain

We were soon back on the road again, headed southeast on the C43 (practically a highway!!!) towards Palmwag, where we would spend the night.  One common scene on Namibian roads I haven't shared is that of the donkey drawn cart.  Donkey carts are common and we had seen a few but most of my pictures were taken out the window of a moving vehicle and were not very good.  We passed this guy just outside of Sesfontain.

Donkey driver with a good attitude!

We were still enjoying nice scenery

We were about an hour outside of Sesfontain when we ran into trouble.  Leon and Martie had a puncture (flat tire).

Flat tire on the back right

Martie and Leon had lost a tire early on when a rock punctured the sidewall.  That mishap left them with one spare.  Unfortunately, the spare, brought on the trip by mistake, had a bubble in the sidewall and it subsequently burst while on the top of Tom's vehicle.  Now they had no spare.  It took an hour to fix the flat tubeless tire, using 8 tire repair kits (string and glue) as well as a sealant you spray into the tire to seal it.  Once back on the road, we didn't get very far when they had another flat on the back left.

Puncture on back left...Roelof at work again!!!

After Leon and Martie's second flat the group split.  Roleof and Rykie stayed with Leon and Martie while the rest of us went on to Palmwag Lodge, about 45 minutes away.  Fixing the second flat was too challenging and Leon ended up sending the tire to the Palmwag lodge where they installed a 16 inch tube into the 18 inch tubeless tire.  This worked well enough to get Leon and Martie's vehicle to Palmwag, about 2-3 hours later.

View on road to Palmwag

Checking into the Palmwag Lodge/Campsite

Palmwag lodge, actually situated in northern Damaraland rather than Koakoland, is located next to a large wilderness area that is home to one of the world's largest population of black rhino, which is an endangered species.  The black rhino is the hooked-lip rhino...not actually black in color.  Save the Rhino Trust (SRT), an NGO, was instrumental in starting a protection program here about 20 years ago.  Trips can be taken to see the rhino...we didn't.  The lodge also offers game drives...we didn't do that either...but I was impressed by their sightings, which included desert lion and cheetah but no rhino.

Palmwag game viewing board: desert lion, cheetah, and lots of elephant

The 22nd was actually a very special day...it was Rita's birthday!  To celebrate, She and Nico decided to book a room at the lodge rather than camp.

Palmwag Lodge chalets

Hot and hungry, Salome and I headed for the outside bar where we could get something to eat and drink.

After eating and relaxing, we set up camp and started preparing for Rita's birthday celebration.

Tom, Bertie, and Salome relaxing in camp

Lodge personnel placing repaired flat on vehicle roof

After all our group was in camp, showered and rested...we celebrated Rita's birthday with champagne...ok, it was actually South African sparkling wine...and a delicious meal with lots of laughter.  As Nico said, he and Rita were married over 40 years and during that time she never once mentioned divorce...murder yes!...but not divorce!

Dawn, Rita and Nico

Tom, Bertie and Leon

Martie, Rykie, and Roelof