Day 16, Sept 23 - Palmwag to Kipwe Lodge, Damaraland

Nearing the end of our trip, we discussed around the campfire the previous night our plans for going home.  Tom, Bertie and Dawn got up, packed up, said good-bye and headed for Henties Bay.  Leon and Martie stayed on another 3 days at Palmwag along with Roelof and Rykie. Leon could not find 18 inch tires in the area and had to arrange for tires to be sent from Windhoek to Kamanjab, where we first started our trip. Roelof drove Leon to pick up the tires, which took a day, and they all came back to Henties on the Sept 26. Salome and I decided to go to one of my favorite lodges, Camp Kipwe, in the heart of Damaraland, and spend the night before returning to Henties.  Before leaving, we looked around the Palmwag lodge grounds.

Palmwag Lodge pool

More chalets as seen from the restaurant deck

But the most interesting and fun thing we did before leaving was to meet the young lady below.  Remember it was Leon and Martie's car that had tire problems.  As luck would have it their daughter Lizl was working as Palmwag Lodge manager during our stay there.  Once again I was reminded how Namibia really is a small town! 

Where ever we travelled I was always interested in knowing if other Americans were there or had been there.  Was I the only one finding these places or were other Americans "off the beaten track"?  When I asked lodge managers if they had many American clientelle the answer was always no.  When I asked Lizl she said yes, they do get quite a few.  Then she paused and added, "Well most of them work for the Peace Corps but we do get them."  That wasn't exactly what I had in mind...I meant tourists...do they get many American tourists!!!  And I guess we all know the answer to that!

Salome and Lizl

We said our good-byes and headed for the gate.  A short distance for the lodge entrance we came to a petrol pump at the veterinary cordon fence (red line) where we filled up the cruiser.  The veterinary cordon fence was set up to protect southern Namibia from the spread of foot-and-mouth disease.  The African buffalo, found only in northern Namibia, carries the disease.  Southern areas do not have buffalo and are disease free.  All vehicles must stop at the control point and any beef will be confiscated and they will definitely look in your cooler.  By now we had used up all our beef but they let our pork bratwurst through.  Earlier in the trip we were exiting the protected area and they let us right through.  Upon entering the controlled area they are more strict.

Filling up before the veterinary cordon fence

I was sorry I didn't get a picture of the fence and the World Wildlife Fund (WWF) vehicle waiting waiting in line just behind us.

Scenery after leaving Palmwag

We didn't get far before the unthinkable happened...we had a flat tire!  This time, no Roelof to help!!!  What were we to do?  Salome didn't hesitate to flag down the first vehicle that came our way...a combi (van) full of German tourists! She asked, "Don't you have any strong young men in there to help us?"  I tried to look weak and helpless. ;-)

German tourists changing our tire

The strong young German who changed the tire was well qualified, he owns a garage in Germany.  Being German, he couldn't help make a few comments about the condition of the tires and the fact that our jack was for "toy cars". But we were very appreciative none-the-less.
After leaving the helpful Germans, the road went over some mountains and again the views were excellent.

Interesting road sign...

Unusual rock formation

Mystical mountains of Damaraland

Along the way to Camp Kipwe, on the eastern side of Damaraland in the red rocks, we would pass a Wilderness Safari Lodge, Doro Nawas.  Doro Nawas, a 5-star lodge with a 5-star view, sits on top of a hill in the middle of a vast plain ringed with mountains.  What made our stop there special was Salome's niece's son Jason.  Jason is assistant manager at Doro Nawas and was acting manager the day we stopped by.  He spotted Salome's vehicle from a distance and proudly rushed out to meet us with welcome drinks.  What a great guy!!!

Salome and Jason at Doro Nawas

Looking into lodge from observation deck

The Doro Nawas lodge is a 5-sided building designed to blend into the landscape yet at the same time allow patrons to enjoy the stunning view in all directions. 

Wrap around viewing deck

Floor to ceiling windows in lounge and dining areas

After a delightful visit with Jason we headed for Camp Kipwe, about an hour away.  As I said earlier, Camp Kipwe is one of my favorite lodges.  It is an Andre Lowe lodge, owner and designer of the award winning Onguma "Fort" outside of Etosha.  Kipwe is nestled in the red rocks of Damaraland and the best word I can think of to describe it is zen...it is not on the rocks, it is in the rocks and has become one with them.  And it's one of the most peaceful places I've ever been.

Bungalow porch

View from our bungalow

Entrance to bungalow

Camp Kipwe manager, Adriaan, and Salome at breakfast

The manager, Adriaan was a true gentleman and one of the best lodge hosts I've had.  Thank you for a great stay Adriaan!!!  I've got to stop now or I'll be gushing about Camp Kipwe.  We had a lovely afternoon and evening in the red rocks to cap off a fabulous trip...the next morning we left for a 3 hour drive to Henties Bay.